All our couples travelled by Eurostar (0990 186 186) from London, Waterloo to Gare du Nord. The journey takes 3 hours. You can also pick the train up at Ashford.
Prices : £69 if you go midweek and stay away a Saturday night; £89 if you leave on Friday. For these fares you need to book three days in advance. An unrestricted ticket costs £179. £99 is the standard fare on Eurostar. For this fare you need to book seven days in advance. An unrestricted ticket costs £220.
Flying - The cheapest flights to Paris are with British Midland £85 return. Nearest airport is Roissy-Charles-de-Gaulle.
Springtime in Paris is one of the best times to go. Current temperatures range from 5C-17C.
The dialling code for Paris is 00 33
Our couple travelled from Gare du Nord by Metro to their Auberge de Jeunesse.
The Paris Metro is efficient and not as expensive as the Tube in London. The cheapest and most convenient is to buy a carnet of 10 tickets for 48FF.
ACCOMODATION
Our couple stayed in one of Les Maisons Internationales de la Jeunesse et des Etudiants (M.I.J.E). Lodging is in 16th and 17th century hôtels particuliers in Le Marais:
Fauconnier is at 11, rue du Fauconnier, 75004 Paris (our couple stayed at this one)
Fourcy is at 6, rue de Fourcy, 75004 Paris
Maubuisson is at 12, rue des Barres, 75004 Paris
There is a central reservation number - 00 33 42 74 23 45.
Nearest Metro: Pont Marie or Hotel-de-Ville
Rooms charges are from 130FF per person for Bed & Breakfast. Be prepared to share a room with up to eight other people.
Alternatively, you can have a double room with shower for 158F. Maximum stay of 7 days. One important condition - you have to be back by 1am, otherwise you're locked out!
FRIDAY NIGHT
Essential visit to the Eiffel Tower. Metro: Bir-Hakeim, Trocadero or Ecole-Militaire. R.E.R: Champ-de-Mars-Tour-Eiffel. Bus nos. 42, 69, 72, 82, 87.
Internet: http://www.tour eiffel.fr
Tel: 01 44 11 23 11
Open from 9.30am to 11pm (midnight in July and August)
Entry is 20FF
Dusk is the best time to go to - avoid the tourists, skip the queues and get the best views. We went at 6pm and queued for only 2 minutes. Go to the first floor if you're hungry. Our couple skipped the sausage and chips available for 30 FF at the buffet café and opted instead for the more classy Altitude 95. To avoid the crowds, go at 6pm but leave by 7pm - that's when the evening crowds start arriving.
Altitude 95, 1st floor, Eiffel Tower, Paris 75007 (01 45 55 20 04)
The best view over Paris is from the 2nd floor. The third floor is too high and the view is slightly hidden by the grills.
BEST VIEW
If you don't fancy visiting the Eiffel Tower, but want the best view (for free) go to Balzac's house, 47, rue Raynourd, 75016 Paris. (Metro: Passy). You catch a brief sight of the Seine & The Eiffel Tower here before path turns steeply right down the alleyway of Rue des Eaux, where people once came to drink medicinal waters of the springs of Passy.
ENTERTAINMENT
On the way to Friday evening's sing along, we saw 3,000 rollerbladers passing through Paris. They leave every Friday from Porte D'Italie, starting point of 'Friday Night Fever'. Takes three hours and they cover about 27 km. Route covers Palais Royal, Pere Lachaise cemetry and Boulevard St.Michel They come back at 1am to the same place. More information from Pari Roller (tel: 00 33 1 43 36 89 81).
SATURDAY
Our couple were given a walking tour of Paris. Paris is not a large city and it is possible to get from one side to the other in a day easily. You can plan your own walk, as we did, or join one of the many guided walks organised ( many with English speaking guides) around Paris. Details are in Pariscope or in Paris Time Out.
Should you need to, and chances are on a walk around Paris you will, you'll want to visit one of the many public loos. Known as Vespasiennes (after the Roman emperor Vespasien), they are generally places to visit only in cases of extreme urgency. However, worth a detour is the one situated on the Place de la Madeleine (Metro:Madeleine). Opened in 1905, it's decorated in Art Nouveau style and should satisfy the most refined Dames or Monsieurs. Ladies may relieve themselves for 2F70 and gentlemen for 2F20.
A Day in Paris
If you fancy a distraction (for free), you can join many of the elderly gentlemen playing boules or pétanque in the squares in and around Paris. Particularly popular in the South, it has made its way to Paris and is a popular pastime. The rules are easy to pick up. A good place to go is Arenes de Luteces (the restored Roman amphiteater on rue de Navarre, 75005 Paris. Otherwise go to Bois de Vincennes. We went to Porte Dauphine in the 16th arrondissement, where there were quite a few good games going on.
For lessons, contact the Association Sportives de la Boule du 12eme (Rtes des Fortifications, Bois de Vincennes Tel: 01 43 46 58 79). Open daily 2-8.
From there, we went to L'Arc de Triomphe. Napoleon ordered it to be built in 1806 to commemorate his imperial victories. It is the largest triumphant arch in the world and stands in the middle of the world's largest traffic roundabout, the meeting point of 12 avenues (and three arrondissements-8e, 16e, and 17e). You can see the 12 avenues meet from the viewing platform on top of the arch, 284 steps later.
Open from 10am to 10.30pm (until 6pm Mondays and Sundays) from October to March and from 9.30am to 11pm (6.30pm Sundays and Mondays) from 1 April to September. Entry ticket is 35F (23F concessions); free for under-12s.
Onto the Pont D'Alma.Pont de L'Alma was built between 1854 and 1856. The Flame of Liberty that stands there is a replica of the one atop the torch on the Statue of Liberty in NYC. It was placed here by US firms based in Paris in 1989 to honour the bicentennial of the French Rev. It is now most famous as the death place of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed. People come and leave messages and flowers still today.
Cross the largest square in Paris, La Place de la Concorde but be careful - no-one will stop for you. It is best seen when lit up - the best view is from the terrace by the Jeu de Paume at the end of the Tuileries gardens.
From La Concorde you can cross the river at Pont de la Concorde or go the Jardins des Tuileries and the Louvres and cross at Pont Neuf.
Jardins des Tuileries.
Metro: Palais Royal. 30 mins walk, via Louvre Pyramid.Open 7am to 10.30pm from end of March-September. 7.30am to 7pm the rest of the year. Free guided visits (01 40 20 90 43).
Jardins des Tuileries is over 400 years old. Bourgeois families used to come and stroll here on a Sunday afternoon. It is still very popular and a great place for love, romance and flirtation.
Pont-Neuf
The oldest bridge and longest bridge in Paris. Do as Juliette Binoche and Denis Lavant did in Les Amants du Pont Neuf - dance to the sound of 14 July fireworks. (Secret - it wasn't in fact filmed there at all but near Montpellier, to avoid all the Parisian filming constraints).
Les Egouts de Paris
Entrance opp. no.93, Quai D'Orasay, Paris 75007 (01 53 68 27 81)
Open 11am-4pm. Closed Thur. & Fri.
Admission: 25F;20F students, under 16s
As Victor Hugo said in Les Miserables, beneath Paris is another city. 5 metres underground is a 2100km sewage system. Each sewer is marked with a replica of the street sign above it. It is one of the smelliest museums in the world but well worth a visit.
Musee D'Orsay
1 rue de Bellechasse, Paris 75007. Metro: Solferino. Bus: 24, 63, 68 , 69, 73, 83, 84, 94 (tel 00 33 1 40 49 48 14)
Open 10h-18h, Tuesday-Sunday (from 9h on Sun and mid-June to August)
Tickets are free for under 18s, 30F for 18-25, and 40F for over 25s. On Sunday, all tickets are 30F. They are valid all day long.
Other Exhibitions currently on in Paris
Mark Rothko at Musee d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris
11 av. du President Wilson, 75016 (01 53 67 40 00)
Metro: Alma-Marceau. Open Tue-Fri 10am-5.30pm; Sat, Sun 10am-6.45pm
Admission: 40F
Until 18 April
David Hockney at Pompidou Centre
Rue Rambuteau, Paris 75001. (01 44 78 12 33)
Metro: Chatelet-Les-Halles
South Gallery open 10am to 10pm
Admission: 30F
Until 26 April
The Top Five paintings in France (according to Doors to Manual):
Pommes et Oranges de Paul Cezanne
Nuit étoilée de Van Gogh
La Meridienne (ou La Sieste) de Van Gogh
Le Bal au Moulin de la Galette de Renoir
Les Nympheas bleus De Monet
Currently on at Musee D'Orsay Musee D'Orsay currently have a special Saison Anglaise - a series of springtime exhibitions with England as their theme. They include an exhbition of the Pre-Raphaelite artist Edward Burne-Jones, photographic portraits by Lewsi Carroll and two separate exhibitions of Victorian art and photographs.
L'Eglise Saint Germain des Pres
Oldest church in Paris, dates back to sixth century. By eight century was one of most important Benedictine monastries in France and host to an imporant medieval fair. What you say now is merely a shadow of its former self since it was severly demolished by a Revolutianary mob in 1792.
Hotel de Ville
La place de L'Hotel de Ville is where the French mayor resides. In the Middle Ages, it was the scene of public executions. It is where some of the most famous revolutionaries had their heads chopped off. And it's where Charles de Gaulle took over control of France after the Liberation in August 1944. But what's it most famous for -Robert Doisneau's The Kiss.
La Chartier
66, rue Faubourg Montmartre, Paris 75009 (01 47 70 86 29)
Metro: Rue-Montmartre
Open for lunch and dinner every day, until 10pm.
No reservations. Always packed with usuals, elderly people from the area, students and tourists, who all come for a good 3 course meal with a drink for under 100F. 350 places, 16 waiters, 1300 servings per day.
Chez Papa
Rue Lafayette, 75010 (01 42 09 53 87)
6, rue Gassendi 75104 (01 43 22 41 19)
Open for lunch and dinner every day.
Rich, Southwestern cuisine and the warmest welcome keep the young crowds coming to Chez Papa for traditional cassoulet, confit de canard and snails.
The three-course 50F menu is great value.
Our budget couple went for classic French entertainment - to sing French chansons with young and old alike Au Vieux Paris, 74 rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Paris (Tel: 01 48 87 55 56). Owned by Madame Francoise, Au Vieux Paris has been around for years and the resident accordion player, Serge, has been player there ever since it opened. Have a glass or four of red wine and sing along with sheet music until 4am (unless you're staying at the auberge, in which case, don't forget -1am!)
GRAPHICS PACKAGE ( Places in La Marais)
L'Ambroisie
9, pl. des Vosges, 75004 Paris
(01 42 78 51 45)
Average Price: £80
Most romantic restaurant in Paris.
Cafe Tresor
5-7 rue du Tresor, 75004 Paris
(01 44 78 06 60)
Cool bar, young, funky and great for late night drink
SUNDAY
Sunday lie-ins are so last year. Today, everybody's jumping out of bed on a Sunday and philosophising. Café des Phares was the first philisophical café to open in Paris and more are popping up all over Paris.
Café des Phare, 7, place de la Bastille, Paris 75004 (01 42 72 04 70).
Debates begin at 11am every Sunday morning.
Horse racing
Racing in Paris is easy, accessible, great fun and immensely popular. The main courses are reached by Metro. We went to Auteil where races start at 3pm. Go early and treat yourself to a merguez (spicy sausage) sandwich with a beer or glass of wine. Good information about which races are on can be found in the sports pages of France Soir.
Auteil
Bois de Boulogne, Paris 75016 (01 44 10 20 30)
Metro: Porte D'Auteil.
Transport
Our luxury couple travelled mostly by taxi. Taxis in Paris are difficult to hail and it's best to go to a taxi rank, often found by a metro. You have to seriously haggle if you want to fit more than three in the car and you will be charged extra for bags. Most journeys in central Paris average 40F-70F.
ACOMMODATION
Hotel Costes
239, rue St Honore, Paris 75001 (Tel: 01 42 44 50 00)
Prices: Single room £180; double room £205-£230; duplex apartment £335-390. Breakfast is an additional 150F
Great location, on rue St Honore, between Gucci and Colette, this 85 room hotel is the place to stay in Paris. People who have stayed here include Johnny Depp, Eva Herzigova, Karen Mulder, Roman Polanski and Micky Rourke.John Galliano works out in the gym. A few words of advice - wear black from head to toe, sunglasses whatever the time of day and don't spend too much time getting ready - you'll never look as good as the staff.
Manray,
34 rue Marbeouf, 75008 Paris (01 56 88 36 36)
Average: £50 per head
Newly opened restaurant, owned by Mick Hucknall of Simply Red, Sean Penn and Johnny Depp. Bono and Johnny Hallyday did an opening-night duet and on the night we were there, Roman Polanski was at the next table.
Café Marly
93, rue de Rivoli opp. Louvre, Paris 75001. Tel: 49 26 06 60
Average: £30 per head
Café Marly is situated in the cours Napoleon of the Louvre and offers the best view of I.M.Pei's glazed pyramid. Sit in the sun under the arcades and watch the world (and the beautiful people) go by. Ladies - go to the loo and powder your nose - it's worth the detour.
Ines de la Fressange
14, Avenue Montaigne 75008. (01 23 08 94 14)
Previously Karl Lagerfeld's 'muse', the very tall, very thin and very aristocratic Ines de la Fressange. French women just can't get enough of her limitless style and not a month goes by when she isn't in some magazine giving her tips on what to wear. It is expensive - £175 for a pair of trousers, £630 for a silk three-quarter length jacket and £160 for a pair of shoes. Style that definitely comes at a price.
La Tour D'Argent
15-17 Quai de la Tournelle,( 01 43 54 23 31)
Open every day until 10.30pm except Mondays
Average: £100 per head
Gastronomic experience in this two star restaurant, the eldest restaurant in Paris . Famous for: the most amazing view of Notre Dame; it's duck theatre and the invention of the fork.
The duck theatre is la Tour d'Argent's signature dish. The sauce is made from the duck's blood which is pressed out and mixed with madeira wine.
It's an art form and one that over 800,000 ducks have unwittingly participated in.
It is rumoured that the fork was invented here by Henry III. The fork was formally used to grill meat. But at the end of the 16th century he made it acceptable, among the aristocracy, to use it to eat food.
La Tour D'Argent also has an amazing wine cellar, one of the largest in the world,with over 500,000 bottles of wine.
Colette
213, rue Saint-Honore, 75001 ( 01 55 35 33 90).
Coolest shop in Paris. The design of the shop alone merits a detour. Place to buy your Pellta-Finet cashmeres, Capri d'Arfango loafers, Francois Nars make-up and your Pucci pants. Don't forget to try the Water Bar, where you have the choice from over 80 different types of water from the world over. Most popular ones are French and include Wattwiller and la Saint Georges de Corse. Prices for water range from 8F to 35F a bottle. There is also a nail bar where you can have a quickie manicure for 100F.
Androuet
6, rue Arsene-Houssaye, (corner of Lord Byron & Av. Friedland)
Paris 75008 (42 89 98 00).
Average: £35 per head for menu, from £3-£13 for cheese
Churchill once said about de Gaulle "how can you govern a country that has over 500 cheeses". But when they are as delicious and appetising as the ones in this shop, you can understand why Charles may have had his mind on other things. You can come here in the evenings and have dinner consisting of dishes made only of cheese. Or for 350F you can try a six course cheese and wine tasting. Bring back the smelliest camembert you can find on the train - no really, it's very funny.
Dave
39, rue St Roch, Paris 75001 (42 61 49 48)
Average: £50 per head.
It's where the fashion crowd flock when they fancy just a plate of Dim Sum.
Hidden behind the Eglise Saint-Roch, Dave will welcome you with open arms and take your picture if you're somebody. Polaroids of Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Cher, Madonna and Leonardo di Caprio adorn the walls. Tim Burton was tucking in at the table next to us when we were there. Go to see and be seen, sweetie, but not to eat - the food is terrible and it doesn't come at take-away prices either.
Viaduc Café
43 av. Daumesnil, Paris 75012. (01 44 74 70 70)
In the up-and-coming area of Paris, Belleville, Viaduct café is the place to come for live jazz brunch on a Sunday morning. Hip, cool and very smooth.
Average: £14 brunch menu
Helicopter Ride
Le Bourget airport, next to Charles de Gaulle airport. (01 48 35 90 44)
COST: 4000F for 25 mins
The best and most ultimate way to see Paris - at a price.
BEST OF 5
Maria Luisa
2, rue Cambon, Paris 75001. (01 47 03 96 15)
Prices: Ranges from £100 for a skirt to £3,500 for an evening dress
When Gwyneth Paltrow's in town, she heads straight for Maria Luisa's boutique. And she's not the only one to fall for the items in Venezuelan born Luisa's shop. Nicole Kidman, Juliette Binoche and Shalom all drop by for cashmeres, jewellery, shoes and dresses.
Eres
2, rue Tronchet, Paris 75008 (01 47 42 28 82)
Prices: Swimsuit £70, bikini £90.
No self-respecting French woman would be seen on the beach without her Eres swimming costume. Well-cut, fashionable and feminine, and always more attractively priced in July, when the sales are on.
Vanessa Bruno
25, rue Saint Sulpice, Paris 75006 (01 43 54 41 04)
Prices: Ranges from £17 for a t-shirt to £70 for trousers.
A young designer who combines the modern with the comfortable (all her clothes are machine washable). Aimed at the 20-to 30-something woman who likes to be modern but timeless.
TIPS
Paris Carte Musees et Monuments (CM)
Price: one day:80F, three days: 160F, five days: 240F
This card gives you free entry to over 70 museums and monuments in Paris and allows you to skip the queues. Well worth it for intensive museum visits. Well worth it for intensive museum visits. Available from museums, tourist offices and metro stations.
Phonecards - don't be without one. Buy them from kiosks but beware, they're closed Sundays.
